BASE INSPECTION AND REPAIR

BASE INSPECTION AND REPAIR

Before doing any repair work to skis (Snowboarders, you can make a brew and skip this section) we need to get the brake arms out of the way, so that we can safely work on the side edges and base.

If you have a ski vice, then these generally do this for you or include a part to pull the brake arms away. For everyone else, all you need to do is use a pair of rubber band brake retainers. These are super-strong rubber bands that hook round the brake arms over the binding. Simple, but effective!

Now secure the ski or snowboard so that it is safe to work on, and then you are ready to start working.



Inspection

Inspection

Looking at the first image on the left this is a typical ski after one week of skiing. It has some scratches on the edges and the base. There is no real problem with the base. The small scratches are not near an edge to cause concern, and are too shallow to repair, and they actually do not need work. Small scratches might look messy, but will not effect the performance of the base. Only do work that is really required is the motto here! The areas that are darker on the base from rubbing can be gently rubbed down with a fine oxide paper if you wish.

So in this instance we would take the steel scraper, hold it at less than 45 degrees to the base, and carefully make a couple of passes down the length of the ski to remove any 'fuzz' created by those scratches. For skis keep the blade level with the base by using the edges as 'rails'. In the case of a board, more care must be taken as you do not have the edge either side of the base as a guide. The second image shows the result. The base has whitened a little as you have also scraped off some residual old wax.



Preparation

Preparation

In this instance we have a small gouge (PICTURE 1). These should be repaired to prevent further damage. If the gouge is near an edge this is particularly important. If the gouge is so deep it is through to the core, then although this can be repaired (and in resort you should do so as outlined below) it is best that this is undertaken in a repair workshop, where we will use a stronger compound as a base called "Metal Grip" to reinforce the repair.

For repairs in your chalet or home workshop, start by cleaning the area with some wax cleaner such as Holmenkol Wax AB (PICTURE 2). Make sure the gouge is free of contaminants. Then lightly score inside the gouge with stanley knife if there is room, to give the repair a good 'key' to bond to.

TIP: Now, grab a hairdryer! Heat the area of the repair gently until warmed through. This will ensure a better adhesion and flow of the repair material.



Repair

Repair

Place your metal scraper next to the repair so that it can catch any excess, and above it light your repair strip. DO NOT use matches, as the carbon content can reduce the effectiveness of the repair strip, use a gas lighter instead. When the strip is lit, move it above the gouge and allow the material to drop into the gouge. (PICTURE 3) Make sure that the material is proud of the base. It wont take much to fill. As soon as you have done this, extinguish the strip (It has a habit of doing this quickly anyway) and move your metal scraper over the repair and press down for a few seconds. This presses the material into the gouge, and also flattens the material for easier smoothing off in the next step.

Allow to cool for as long as possible. Overnight is ideal, but if this is not possible wait at least 15 minutes.

Now take your metal scraper. Pull the scraper towards you over the repair to remove excess material. Do this a bit at a time. When the material is almost flush you can switch to pushing the blade over the repair (PICTURE 4), the surrounding base and edges will ensure that the repair is then flush and level with the existing base. (PICTURE 5)

If you find that the resulting repair is not fully flush with the base, do not worry. You can repair in layers, so simply allow a little time for the existing repair to cool, and then relight a repair strip and apply further material in the area required.



Allow the repair to now cool further (If it has not been left overnight) before waxing the area.

For snowboards or skis with graphics and/or coloured areas, use clear repair strips, and follow the same process as above.